Prepare your dog for the new baby

Before the New Family Member comes Home

Why do you smell funny?

Once you have established leadership in your pack, your dog typically will not get stressed about changes that occur in your household. If the leader is calm, the dog will be calm. However, inconsistencies that may happen when the baby arrives will be viewed by your dog as a sign of weakness. Bad behavior may resurface (barking, rushing the door, chewing, digging) or new problems may arise. This is because the dog is stressed and sees the need for someone to take charge of the pack, so the dog takes on the job of “top dog.”

 

The following are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, babies and small children should never be left with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

 

1. Set new rules before baby arrives. For instance, if you decide to keep your dog out of the baby’s room, implement this several weeks or months before the baby arrives. Thus, your dog will not associate the baby’s arrival with exclusion from the room. Also, try to introduce an erratic schedule so the dog does not know when he will get walked, fed or played with.
2. Prepare your dog for baby’s arrival. You can get your dog used to the new sights and smells he will soon encounter by doing things such as buying an inexpensive doll, wrapping it in baby clothes or a blanket and holding it in your arms as you walk throughout the house. Use the same baby products (powder, shampoo, lotion) that you will use on the baby.

Try to bring home the baby’s blanket or skull cap prior to your baby’s arrival to allow your dog to become accustomed to his scent.

1. Make introductions on the first day the baby arrives home. Your dog will need to “touch scent” the baby to find out what it is. Hold your newborn up high and let your dog sniff the baby’s bottom or feet while another adult controls the dog on a loosely held leash. If the dog misbehaves or is too exuberant, correct the dog’s behavior. Allow frequent, supervised visits by your dog.
2. The more the dog and baby are together, the better and less stressed your dog will be. However, neither newborn nor toddler should ever be left unattended in the same room with your dog.
3. Possessions. Your dog will not know the difference between his toys and your child’s toys until you teach him.
   1. If and only if you catch your dog chewing on something unsuitable, interrupt the behavior with a growled “BAH.” Then give your dog an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
   2. Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space. Although it is normal for a dog to be possessive, it is not acceptable for him to growl or snap at you or your child. At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature that is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and that needs time to himself. If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention.

 

Dogs and Halloween

"Learn the way of dog you must..."

Tame Halloween Fright

Safety Tips for Families with Dogs

By Scott Beckman

 

Keep dogs safe during Halloween—the most dangerous holiday for dogs—

 

Halloween brings a fun time for most of us. Lots of great costumes with little monsters and ghastly ghouls at every turn, yet, for some of our smaller participants, a few unwelcome thrills and chills. And this is just the kids! For some of our much-loved four-legged family members, Halloween can be a nightmare—from oddly dressed squealing kids and strangers ringing doorbells to unusual commotion in the neighborhood—all packed into one action-filled night. Dog owners may not be able to control external surroundings, but they can care for their dog’s safety and well being by observing the following tips :

 

Don’t leave your dog outside. Even if you have a fenced yard, bring your dog inside where it is safe. If your dog is usually kept outside, bring him in a few times before the big night to get him used to being indoors. Sometimes a sudden change can put more stress on a dog. If your dog cannot come inside, ensure your dog has a safe place to go, like a doghouse. Your dog may be used to strangers, but so many little ghouls and goblins running about may be too much. Remember also that it is a natural instinct for dogs to protect the family from strangers, and on Halloween there will be no shortage of strangers.

 

Keep your dog restrained. If your dog is timid or scared, or if he tends to love people a little too much, it is best to put him in a separate room away from the front door to limit his excitability, aggression, and chance of running outside and becoming lost. Also, consider having a crate or safe zone (such as a pillow or a bed) that you can direct him to when people come to the door.

 

Reassure your dog. The best thing you can do for your dog when he is feeling unsettled by Halloween activities is to act as you normally would around your dog. By over-reassuring your dog or giving him an unusual amount of attention, you inadvertently can communicate to him that because you are acting differently, there must be something to worry about.

 

Have your dog get used to costumes. Your dog may see his family members as strangers once they don their Halloween costumes. Before the kids put them on, allow your dog to scent the costumes. If your costume has a mask, keep the mask off when you are with your dog because dogs can become confused when they can’t see our faces.

 

Check your dog’s ID tag. Be sure identification tags are secure on your dog’s collar—just in case.

 

Keep candy away from your dog. Many candies—especially chocolate—are toxic to dogs. The severity of the toxicity depends greatly on factors such as breed, age, size, and how much candy was ingested. Problems may range from a mild upset tummy to vomiting and diarrhea, or even death. If you have any concerns at all, consult with a veterinarian immediately. If you want to keep your dog safe, make certain that sweets, including their wrappers, are kept well away from your dog. A wad of wrappers can block the intestinal tract—a very dangerous condition.

 

 

Protect dogs from candles and pumpkins. Excited or agitated dogs can easily knock over a lit candle or pumpkin. Be sure those items are away from your dog’s reach, or consider a battery-powered candle that does not burn. It is also a good idea to allow your dog to see and scent the decorations before dark, without the candles. Those faces can look scary, especially from a dog’s eye view in the dark.

 

Think twice about dressing your dog in a costume. While some dogs might enjoy being dressed up, many don’t. Experiment first to see if your dog likes being in a costume. If so, fine—he’ll most likely enjoy himself and the extra attention it brings. However, if he shows any resistance, don’t do it. Dogs feel enough stress around Halloween without also having to endure the discomfort and peculiarity of wearing a strange costume.

 

Be prepared. If you take your dog with you while trick-or-treating, be prepared at all times. Ghosts and witches can appear at any time. Do not let your dog approach the door of a house, and stay clear of possible gags or gangs of goblins who will gather at the door. Dogs do not understand that the person jumping out at you will not hurt you; they often think they can only help you by acting aggressively. Neither children nor adults in costumes should approach a dog without the owner’s consent. Even the most well-behaved dog can be startled by a ghost popping out and “attacking.”

 

Have fun but think of your dog’s safety. Finally, if you want your dog to be included in Halloween festivities, think about his safety much as you would the safety of a small child. Your dog does not understand Halloween, so he needs you to provide the guidance and safety that you always do.

 

Reading Dog food Labels

All pet foods are NOT created equal. Some foods are very good and healthy for your pet, while manycontain glorified “garbage” masquerading as nutrition. This report explores the differences between whatyou think you’re buying and what you actually get when you purchase food for your dog or cat. It exploreshow to read the pet food label in detail so you can be an educated pet owner. There are hundreds ofdifferent pet foods available in this country. And while many of the foods on the market are virtually thesame, not all of the pet food manufacturing companies use poor quality and potentially dangerousingredients.IngredientsAlthough the purchase price of pet food does not always determine whether a pet food is good or bad, theprice is often a good indicator of quality.

It would be impossible for a company that sells a generic brand ofdog food at $10 for a 40-lb. bag to use quality protein and grain in its food. The cost of purchasing qualityingredients would be much higher than the selling price. In general, lower priced foods contain low qualityingredients that are not as healthy for your pet. However, price can’t be used as the sole determinant ofquality, as some diets that cost more still contain less-than-ideal by-products and chemicals. In generalthough, foods that cost around $1 per pound for dry food and $1.50-$3 per can will USUALLY containhealthier ingredients.ProteinThe protein used in pet food comes from a variety of sources. When animals are slaughtered, the choicecuts such as lean muscle tissue are trimmed away from the carcass for human consumption. However,about 50% of every food-producing animal does not get used in human foods. Whatever remains of thecarcass (bones, blood, intestines, lungs, ligaments, and almost all the other parts not generally eaten bypeople,) is used in pet food, animal feed, and other products. The remains of the carcass are known as”by-products.” While pet food labels may list the term “by-product,” it is impossible to know just which “byproducts”are used in the food without contacting the manufacturer (who may not know either if themanufacturer purchases the “by-products” from another source!)Many of these remnants provide a questionable and possibly dangerous source of “nutrition” for our pets.

The nutritional quality of meat and poultry by-products, meals, and digests can vary from batch to batch.Unfortunately, there are no guidelines that give consumers information on the bioavailability of nutrients inmany of the common dietary ingredients used in pet foods. There is a wide variation in nutrientcomposition. While claims of nutritional adequacy of pet foods based on the current Association ofAmerican Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) nutrient allowances are made, ultimately the ingredients mustbe analyzed in order to determine their bioavailability.Meat and poultry meals, by-product meals, and meat-and-bone meals are common ingredients in pet food.

The term “meal” means that these materials are not used fresh, but have been rendered. What isrendering? Rendering is “to process as for industrial use: to render livestock carcasses and to extract oilfrom fat, blubber, etc., by melting.” Homemade chicken soup, with its thick layer of fat that forms over thetop when the soup is cooled, is a sort of mini-rendering process. Rendering separates fat-soluble fromwater-soluble and solid materials, and kills bacterial contaminants. Usually, “meals” are as nutritious as“meats;” in some cases they contain MORE protein than meat since water is removed from the meals.However, only by contacting the manufacturer of the food and asking its definition of “meal” can you trulyknow for sure.

What can the feeding of such products do to your companion animal? Some veterinarians claim thatfeeding slaughterhouse wastes to animals increases their risk of getting cancer and other degenerativediseases. The cooking methods used by pet food manufacturers (rendering and extruding) do not alwaysdestroy the hormones used to fatten livestock or increase milk production, or drugs such as antibiotics orthe barbiturates used to euthanize animals. Animal and Poultry FatYou may have noticed a unique, pungent odor when you open a new bag of pet food. That smell is likely rendered animal fat, restaurant grease, or other oils too rancid (oxidized and damaged) or deemedinedible for humans.According to the API (Animal Protection Institute,) restaurant grease is a major component of fat used inpet foods. This grease is often held in fifty-gallon drums kept outside and exposed to temperatureextremes. “Fat blenders” (rendering companies) then pick up this used grease and mix the different typesof fat together, stabilize them with powerful chemical antioxidants to retard further spoilage, and then sellthe blended products to pet food companies.These fats are sprayed directly onto dried kibbles or extruded pellets to make an otherwise bland ordistasteful product palatable.

The fat also acts as a binding agent to which manufacturers add other flavorenhancers such as digests.Carbohydrates/GrainsThe amount of grain products used in pet food has risen over the last decade. Once considered filler bythe pet food industry, cereal and grain products now replace a considerable proportion of the meat thatwas used in the first commercial pet foods. Many holistic diets believe the high amount of grains andcarbohydrates in cat foods may contribute to diabetes in cats genetically predisposed to develop thisserious disorder.The availability of nutrients in grains is dependent upon the digestibility of the grain. The amount and typeof carbohydrate in pet food determines its nutrient value. Dogs and cats can almost completely absorbcarbohydrates from some grains, such as white rice. Up to 20% of the nutritional value of other grains maynot be digested and absorbed.

The availability of nutrients for wheat, beans, potatoes, corn and oats isless than rice. Some ingredients, such as peanut hulls, are used for filler or fiber, and have no significant nutritional value.Two of the top three ingredients in pet foods, especially dry foods, are almost always some form of grain.“Ground Corn” and “Corn Gluten Meal” are commonly listed. This is even true for cat foods, even thoughcats are true carnivores and don’t require carbohydrates. Since corn is much cheaper than meat, it is often used as one of the protein sources.Soy is another common ingredient that is sometimes used as a protein and energy source in pet food.Manufacturers also use it to add bulk so that when an animal eats food containing soy he will feel full.While soy has been linked to gas in some dogs, other dogs do quite well with it. Vegetarian dog foods usesoy as a protein source.Additives and PreservativesMany chemicals are added to commercial pet foods to improve the taste, stability, characteristics, orappearance of the food. Additives provide no nutritional value. Additives include emulsifiers to preventwater and fat from separating, antioxidants (often chemicals in cheaper foods, and vitamins and mineral inmore expensive natural foods) to prevent fat from turning rancid, and artificial colors and flavors to makethe product more attractive (to pet owners since dogs and cats don’t see colors) and more flavorful to dogsand cats (many foods would not be flavorful to pets if not for artificial chemical flavorings as by-productsare not particularly tasty.) All commercial pet foods contain preservatives. Some of these are added toingredients or raw materials by the suppliers (and may not even by known by the end manufacturer of thefood) and the manufacturer may add others. Because manufacturers need to ensure that dry foods have along shelf life to remain edible after shipping and prolonged storage, fats included in pet foods arepreserved with either synthetic or “natural” preservatives.Synthetic preservatives include butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT),propylene glycol (which can cause anemia in cats and possibly small dogs,) and ethoxyquin. There is littleinformation documenting the long-term toxicity and safety of these chemicals, which are eaten every dayfor the life of the animal.Some manufacturers have responded to consumer concern, and are now using “natural” preservativessuch as Vitamin C (ascorbate), Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols), and oils of rosemary, clove, or otherspices, to preserve the fats in their products. Other ingredients, however, may be individually preserved.Fishmeal, and some prepared vitamin mixtures used to supplement pet food, contains chemicalpreservatives. This means that your pet may be eating food containing several types of preservatives. Notall of these are required to be disclosed on the label; however, preservatives used in fat are now requiredto be listed on the label.Common Pet Food IngredientsLet’s take a closer look at some of the ingredients that can occur in foods so that you can appreciate thedifferences in the quality and ultimately benefit or detriment of these ingredients to your pet’s health.Protein SourceThere is a large amount of confusion among pet owners when they read terms like chicken, chicken meal,and chicken by-product meal. Here is how these terms are defined by the AAFCO, the AmericanAssociation of Feed Control.AAFCO Defined IngredientsProteinUsed as an energy source, protein also functions to maintain a pet’s body.

It is the main component ofmuscles, organs and glands and acts as the building block for important body regulators such as enzymesand hormones.Animal by-product meal: Rendered mammal tissue without added hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings,manure and stomach contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processingpractices. This definition is used to cover tissue products that do not meet other definitions and is notintended to be used to label a mixture of animal tissue products.Corn gluten meal: The dried residue of corn protein with the starch and fat removed, and the separation ofthe bran by a process employed in wet milling manufacture of corn starch and syrup. Corn gluten meal isa by-product and low in critical amino acids. Ground corn, which contains the entire corn kernel, ispreferred.Dried egg: The egg white and yolk, which have had the moisture removed.Dried egg white: Dried eggs, with the yolk removed, containing a higher percentage of protein.Dried whey: A fraction of milk that contains whey protein and lactose, or milk sugar, and has had itsmoisture removed.Meat: Clean flesh from slaughtered animals limited to skeletal muscle or that found in the tongue,diaphragm, heart or esophagus, with or without accompanying fat, sinew, skin, nerve, and blood vessels.Can be from any animal species such as pigs, goats, rabbits and so forth. If meat is of a descriptive name,it must correspond to that species.Meat and bone meal: Rendered (fat and water removed) mammal tissue including bone without addedblood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure and stomach contents, except in such amounts as mayoccur unavoidably in good processing practices.

This is a by-product with variable amounts of meat andbone (differing between batches) and variable protein quality. Like meat meal, it can contain meat from4D animals (dead, dying, diseased, or disabled), which come from animals condemned for humanconsumption.Meat by-product: non-rendered (contains fat and water) clean parts other than meat, including lungs,spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, stomachs and intestines freed of contents. Cannot have hair,horns, teeth, and hoofs. While this protein source may be more wholesome than meat meal or meat andbone meal (since it comes from non-rendered tissue and from slaughtered animals rather than fromcarcasses of already dead animals,) there is no way to tell by reading the label how much of which “byproducts”are included in the food.Meat meal (e.g., lamb meal): Rendered (fat and water removed) mammal tissue without added blood,hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure and stomach contents, except in such amounts as may occurunavoidably in good processing practices. It can contain meat from 4D animals (dead, dying, diseased, ordisabled), which come from animals condemned for human consumption. However, meat meal can alsocome from dehydrated meat and can be of high quality (some manufacturers of higher quality natural dogand cat foods make their own meal.) As a rule, it should be avoided unless you contact the manufacturerto find out what exactly is in the “meat meal.”Poultry: Clean combination of flesh and skin, with or without accompanying bone, and does not containfeathers, heads, feet and guts. The origin is from any fowl such as turkeys, ducks, geese and so forth. If itbears a descriptive name it must correspond to that species.Poultry by-product meal: Ground, rendered, clean slaughtered poultry carcass parts such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines. Cannot contain any feathers, except in such amounts as may occurunavoidably in good processing practices.

The quality is very inconsistent between batches. Because it isa by-product, it is best avoided in dog and cat food.Poultry by-product: Nonrendered, clean, slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet and viscera free fromfecal content and foreign matter, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processingpractices. The quality is very inconsistent between batches. Because it is a by-product, it is best avoidedin dog and cat food.Poultry meal: Dry, rendered flesh and skin, with our without accompanying bone, that does not containfeathers, heads, feet and guts, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processingpractices. The quality is very inconsistent between batches. Because it is a by-product, it is best avoidedin dog and cat food.Rice gluten: The dried residue of rice protein without starch or fat. Rice gluten is a by-product and low incritical amino acids. Ground or whole rice, is preferred.Soy protein concentrate and soy isolate: Concentrated sources of soy protein. Concentrate is 80 percentprotein and isolate is 90 percent protein.Whey concentrate and whey isolate: More concentrated forms of whey protein.CarbohydratesDogs are more omnivorous and can use carbohydrates in their diets, although they are not essential.Cats can use a limited amount of carbohydrates as energy, but there is no specific carbohydraterequirement for cats.Brewers rice: A by-product of milling consisting of the small milled fragments of rice kernels that havebeen separated from larger kernels of milled rice; not as wholesome as ground brown (or white) rice. Thisis a by-product and is not as healthy as whole rice.

Ground brown rice: The entire product obtained in grinding rice kernels after the hulls and pericarp havebeen removed. Brown rice is better than white (bleached) rice, which has fewer nutrients than brown rice.Ground corn: The entire ground kernel of corn including carbohydrates, protein and fat. This is preferredto corn fractions (gluten meal, etc.) which are missing nutrients.Peanut Hulls: This ingredient consists of the outer hull of the peanut shell. It is a by-product that is oftenadded as a source of fiber in “Lite” or restrictive diets. It has no nutritional value. There is the potential forcontamination with aflatoxin mold, which can cause disease in pets.Rice flour: The finely ground meal obtained from milling rice, containing mostly starch and protein withsome fine particles of rice bran.

This is a by-product and is not as healthy as whole rice.Sorghum: The ground grain of the sorghum plant.Soybean meal: The product obtained by grinding flakes, which remain after most of the oil has been removed from soybeans.Wheat flour: The finely ground meal obtained from milling wheat, containing mostly starch and protein with some fine particles of wheat bran. This is a by-product and is not as healthy as whole wheat.Wheat middlings: Also called wheat mill run or wheat mids, wheat middlings is a by-product of millingconsisting of the particles of wheat bran and flour from the end of the mill from commercial flour milling.This is a by-product and is not as healthy as whole wheat.

FatFat functions as a concentrated source of energy. It carries fat-soluble vitamins, provides essential fattyacids and enhances food palatability.Animal fat: Fat from mammal or poultry tissue in the commercial process of rendering or extracting.Chicken fat: Fat from chickens in the commercial processing of rendering.Beef tallow: Fat from cattle.Oil: Liquid fat extracted from plant sources such as corn, soybeans, sunflowers and so forth.FiberFiber is used to maintain gastrointestinal functioning and promote normal stools. Cats do not have a strictdietary requirement for fiber.Beet pulp: Dried residue from sugar beets used in sugar processing used as fiber.Rice bran: The outer coating of a rice kernel used as fiber.Peanut hulls: The outer hull of the peanut shell used as fiber.

Dog Park Safety Tips

Are we still playing?

DOG PARK SAFETY TIPS

Dog parks can be a great way to socialize your dog — but can also be unsafe if proper measures aren’t taken. The following tips are to help you keep your dog

safe and happy at the park.

By Scott Beckman

• Know your dog. Not all dogs enjoy meeting new dogs. Don’t let your dog get overwhelmed by meeting too many dogs at once. If your dog has not interacted regularly with other dogs, find out how he will react.  You can perform a test by introducing your dog to a friends’ dog that you know interacts well with other dogs. Testing your dog in a controlled environment is ideal before you go into the dog park.

 

• Keep your dog healthy. Be sure your dog isn’t vulnerable to picking up infections from other dogs by keeping him up to date on his vaccinations and worming medications.

 

• Observe. Consider visiting the park without your dog for the first time to familiarize yourself with the park itself and the dogs that play there. Before bringing your dog inside the park, spend a few minutes watching the other dogs and how they interact. If the dogs seem too rough for your dog, come back at another time or try a different dog park. On your next visit you may want to bring your dog and sit quietly with him outside the park. Having your dog with you to observe from outside the park enables you to watch how he reacts to seeing the other dogs.

 

• Start out slow. The first few visits to the dog park should be short, no longer than 15 minutes. Slowly increase the length of your stays as your dog becomes more comfortable with the dog park atmosphere.

 

• Choose a time that is less busy for your first few visits to the park. Weekday evenings are peak, high-traffic times at dog parks, and weekends and holidays tend to be busy all day long. Acquaint your dog with the dog park when the park isn’t as crowded.

 

• Closely supervise your dog. Don‘t get distracted while talking to other owners. Keep an eye on your dog at all times to make sure his interactions with other dogs are safe. Watch his body language to help you avoid any trouble before it begins. Watching his actions also enables you to quickly clean up after your pet.

 

• Let your dog off leash as soon as you enter unleashed areas. Mixing leashed and unleashed dogs can create a hostile situation. Leashed dogs, and their owners, often display body language and behavior that is threatening to the unleashed dogs and may encourage them to be aggressive and defensive in return. A leashed dog cannot make the choice his natural instinct tells him of “fight or flight” — if he cannot take flight, he may have to fight.

 

• Potential hazards. Be aware of potential hazards that may be in the park, such as toxic chemicals, garbage or noxious plants. Be sure to wash any chemicals, such as fertilizer or pesticides, off of your dog’s feet and legs to ensure they aren’t licked and ingested.

 

• Leave children at home. Don’t bring children with you to the dog park. You will not safely be able to watch your kids and your dog at the same time. Many dogs have not been socialized to children. Both frighten and excite easily — and react differently — creating a dangerous atmosphere. It’s simply too easy for a child to get hurt at a dog park.

• Leave small puppies at home. Puppies less than four months old aren’t fully immunized yet and are at higher risk for contracting diseases. They are also very vulnerable to being traumatized by another dog’s aggressive behavior.

• Do not bring toys or food. Most parks are already littered with balls and toys that other people have brought. Rewarding your dog with treats or giving him toys in front of other dogs can create jealousy and aggression.

• Body language. Educate yourself about dog body language and communication signals so you can tell the difference between fear, play and anger. Your local Bark Busters trainer can help you learn to “read” your dog’s body language.

 

• Know when to leave. You should remove your dog from the park if he is being threatened or bullied and seems fearful; begins to display aggressive behavior by becoming overexcited or threatening toward other dogs; is panting heavily; or seems overly tired. Keep your dog’s welfare a top priority.

 

• DO NOT physically intervene in a dog fight. Never reach in to break up fighting dogs. Squirt the dogs in the face with a water bottle or try to distract them by throwing something near them, but never physically intervene.

 

• Prevent injuries. Be aware of the signs of a possible dog fight before it might happen. Don’t allow a dog’s overexcitement turn into a fight. If your dog injures a person or dog, give your name and phone number to the injured party. Report to law enforcement authorities any handlers who refuse to take liability for damages or injuries and who are endangering the safety of others.

 

How to Prevent Dog Bites

grrrrr!

How to Prevent Dog Bites

 

By Scott Beckman

 

Nationwide statistics underscore the need to raise awareness around the dangerous problem of dog bites, and to educate the public about what can be done in the way of prevention.  According to the American Veterinary Association and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, more than 4.7 million Americans suffer from dog bites each year.  The severity of the bites obviously varies, but 885,000 people are injured seriously enough each year to require medical attention.  Twelve people die due to mortal wounds.

 

While these numbers are both staggering and alarming, some of the most surprising facts may be that 61 percent of dog bites occur within pet owners’ homes, and 43 percent of all dog bites involve children being bitten by the family dog.  As such, parents can take a large “bite” out of these high incidence rates simply by learning some basic guidelines that will help their children avoid getting bit by their own dogs.

 

“Many of the tips we give our clients are pretty straightforward and appeal to one’s commonsense, but they have proven very successful and are based on what we have experienced and learned over our 20 years of training dogs,” stated Liam Crowe, Bark Busters’ president, CEO and master trainer.  “For example, under no circumstances should a baby be left alone with a dog, and young children should never walk or feed the dog unsupervised.  Parents should never allow a young child to discipline their dog, pull on the dog’s collar or play aggressive games with them.  What parents should do is teach their dog to be submissive and respond to verbal commands.”

 

Of course, dog bites are not restricted to children.  The following tips can help reduce the chances of adults being attacked by an approaching dog:

• Don’t try to make friends with a dog;
• Stand still, stand tall and don’t move a muscle until the dog loses interest in you – don’t try to run away;
• Allow the dog to smell you but don’t put your hand out – let the dog come close to you on its own terms;
• Face the dog at all times but don’t make eye contact with the dog or stare – it can be perceived as a sign of aggression;
• Back away slowly, watching the dog from the corner of your eye;
• If the dog knocks you down, roll up into a fetal position with your arms covering your head and neck and play dead; don’t fight back.

 

Dogs can be wonderful, loving companions.  To keep yourself and your dog happy and safe, act responsibly.  By following the above tips, you can help reduce the risk of your dog biting others, or getting bit by a strange dog yourself.

 

What about Dog Food?

Think about it, dogs before we came along, were on an protein diet. That is they only ate small, prey animals (protein) for their food source. Think about wolves…. what do they eat? Dogs are direct decedents of wolfs, their digestive systems have not changed since we started feeding them our idea of dog food 80 years ago. When we started feeding dogs Dog Food, we, as humans, decided dogs need a balanced diet of Grains, Protein, and Carbohydrates. No good. Dogs DO NOT digest grains, corn and wheat as well as we do, and we don’t even digest them very well, but I digress. Most of the non-digestible items apass through the dogs digestive system without ever being used. So that dog poop you hate to pick up is mostly non used fillers used to make the food.
Sugars, another problem in dog food. Corn syrup is just sugar basically, again dogs do not digest this well, PLUS, it may cause ups and downs in your dogs temperament. Think about it like this, try feeding a kid nothing but Cotton Candy. Well after the initial ” high” there will be an inevitable ” Low”. Maybe thats why your pup goes crazy after he eats and won’t stop running and jumping all over you, then crashes and sleeps. Repeat with next feeding.

Besides the obvious adverse behavior effects, there are studies linking things like Dysplasia, Diabetes, Skin allergies,Cancer, Anal gland impaction and even dog life longevity directly to dog food. ( See B.A.R.F Diet)

Dogs on a proper diet are known to have lived as long as 20 years, have few if any vet visits and are active there whole lives. Look at the first five ingredients in your dogs food. See any grains, corns, wheat and the like? You probably do. Don’t worry most people don’t know this stuff, thats why I’m helping you. Look at the first 5 ingredients of you dog food. There should be 1 or less grain, rice or Carbohydrate in there. How about the treats? Same goes for them as well. You can get a proper diet going for your dog including treats.

OK, now you know to stop feeding the equivalent of Taco Bell® to your dog all the time, and your going to start feeding her a nutritious dog food and treats. Buy the way, stop handing your dog treats, instead toss them near her. Handing them to her only lowers your rank, I’ll get into this later but for know believe me, your submitting every time you do. Not good.

Now, not only do you need to give your dog proper nutrition but an adequate supply as well. For adult dogs, over 2 years old, follow the directions on the label. However, if you feed your dog and she gulps it down in 1 second, you may need to increase the amount of food you give your dog. Remember, if your feeding your dog a balanced, nutritious dog food, she won’t ( or shouldn’t) get fat on it. I recommend you feed your dog a little more if she is a gulper. Do a little everyday until you see some slow down. You can wet the food with fish oil or some water to help her ” get it down” until she stabilizes.
As far as puppy’s go, I recommend you free feed your pup, (the right food of course) until about 2 years of age for larger breed dogs, and 1 year on smaller breeds. Free feeding is leaving a bowl of food out with food in it, all day and night. YES! I know, I know…” but Scott, won’t she eat too much?” Negative! Your dog will eat until she is full, then move on. In the wild, a pack provides a puppy with food around the clock while they are growing. Bones, brains everything is growing and they all need a source of quality nutrition around the clock. This will also help with possible food aggression in the future, a dog brought up in an environment with adequate food source will be less likely to be food aggressive.
In case you missed it, this place has a great dog food that handles all of the nutritional requirements of your dog.
No I don’t sell dog food, and it’s not my company but it’s good stuff.
Next will be one of the following, I haven’t decided yet. Safety, Shelter of Entertainment….Talk to you soon.

Exercising with Your Dog

Exercising with Your Dog

Stay-Healthy Tips for You and Your Dog

By Scott Beckman

Just like people, dogs need regular exercise and stimulation to keep them in tip-top shape, both physically and mentally. And since dogs crave human companionship, then who better to choose as your exercise partner than your pooch?

Frequent activity positively impacts your dog’s health in many ways, benefiting his muscles, bones, digestion, sleep, circulation, and general attitude. The bond between canine and human also encourages humans to exercise more frequently and lose more weight than most nationally known diet plans. A key reason for the better results is that the dog walkers stayed with the program because of their emotional connection to their dogs.

Tips to get started

Exercise needs vary from dog to dog, depending on the dog’s breed, age, weight, and other factors. Therefore, consult with your vet before starting an exercise program with your dog—and be sure to consult with your own physician about the right program for you.

• Take things slowly at first. Begin with short sessions at a slow speed, then gradually increase the time, speed and distance.
• Your dog’s paw pads will need time to toughen, so begin walking or running with him on soft surfaces such as dirt, sand or grass.
• Avoid exercising your dog immediately before or after he’s eaten. A full stomach may cause digestive upsets. Provide only small amounts of water before and directly after exercise.

Keep things interesting

Just letting your dog out in the backyard is not enough—most dogs do not exercise themselves. Likewise, a brief daily walk may not be enough either. However, you can keep your dog both physically and mentally active on your daily walk by varying how you walk.

• Change the pace. Intermittently walk fast, slow, stop, etc.  Your dog will come to see this as a game and will find the activity fun and stimulating.
• Change directions frequently. Go left, then right, turn in front of the dog, reverse direction, etc. Each time you make a change in direction, give a gentle flick of the leash to alert your dog you are about to change direction.
• Give obedience commands as you go. Stop and ask your dog to sit, lie down, etc.

Be sensible

No matter how fit your dog, his enthusiasm may overcome his common sense to know when to rest.

• Stop the games if your dog seems to be getting overly tired.
• Be sure he has access to fresh drinking water, but prevent stomach upset by limiting his intake if he is heavily panting.
• Take poop bags to clean up after your dog.

Watch the weather

In winter:

• Watch for signs of frostbite or hypothermia.
• Dress your short-coated dog in a doggie coat or sweater to keep him warm.
• After a romp in the snow, wipe your dog’s paw pads and between the toes to remove any snow, ice or road salts that may have accumulated there.

In summer:

• Exercise in the cool hours of the morning or late evening.
• Watch for signs of heat stroke.
• Beware of hot asphalt, which can damage your dog’s paw pads.

Exercise his mind

Exercise your dog’s brain, too. Just 15 minutes once or twice a day of teaching basic obedience can tire your dog in a different way that is just as essential to his overall health and happiness. Review or teach the basics such as sit, stay, come, and walking on leash to energize the lethargic dog and tire out the hyper dog.

With some practice, you can establish the leadership required for a satisfying stroll with your dog so you can both reap the benefits of good health, fitness and a happy emotional bond. Remember, a tired dog is a happy dog!